Precisely one week ago, Dutch boulderer Sebastian Spauwen made an ascent of the classic boulderproblem ‘La Danse de Balrog’ 8B at Branson, Switzerland. The boulder was first climbed by Frédéric Nicole back in 1992. During his trip, Sebastian hung out with a group of very strong climbers and also managed to make an ascent of ‘Souvenir’ FB 8A(+).
Now here’s Sebastians story about his ascent of ‘La Danse de Balrog’…
Sebastian Spauwen climbing ‘Souvenir’ FB 8A(+) at Chironico
By Sebastian Spauwen
‘We have to make our strengths so strong that our weaknesses become irrelevant.’
I do not believe in the weakest link principle if you would like to excel. I read an article based on some research. I do not know the exact numbers anymore. There were two groups of 15 year old children. One group with children who were considered average readers. These children could read 200 word per minute. The other group were children who were already exceptional good readers for their age and could read 500 words per minute. Both groups were given the same reading training for some period. The first group made quit a good progression and the children could now read about 300 words per minute. The second group also made progression, even much more. They could read about 2.700 words per minute. Rest my case.
So, it is easier to excel on your strengths, than making a strength out of your weaknesses. So, I am not a very good climber, but I do exactly what I am good at. No slabs or walls, just making deadpoints and holding on to small holds on steep boulders. And most of all: I do like it a lot. I do not necessarily need to be an allround climber. Just do what I like and what I am good at. I hope so does everyone.
A while ago, a good friend of mine, Franz Widmer, explored to small bouldering crag of Branson and tried the boulders. He told me about it and I was immediately motivated to have a look at it and crimp through the boulders. This area did became famous in the 90’s. First, Fred Nicole put up La Danse de Balrog, known as the first 8B in the world. The crag became even more famous when Fred also did put up the first 8B+ in the world and called it Radja. The fast first repeat of Radja was made by Klem Loskot and was news all over the world.
How classic can a boulder be? Being the first in a grade is always a milestone which is from then on considered to be a classic. Quite unfortunate, the crag of Branson is very small and mainly exists of one nice bloc. Therefore, the crag never became very famous. The last years I became more and more attracted to climbing classics. That was the reason I wanted to check out Branson. I am not really a pioneer looking for new unclimbed stuff. Maybe I would like to, but I do not have the time to do so. I have only a few holidays per year and in that short time I want to climb as much hard classics as possible. Not exploring the forest or brushing of problems. I thank all climbers who do so, without them no bouldering area’s would exist.
So, the plan was to head off to Branson and try La Danse de Balrog and maybe Radja. So, I did. I could send la Danse de Balrog and try Radja. Psyched!
Sebastiaan Spauwen climbing ‘La Danse de Balrog’ FB 8B
Most inspiring: last week I climbed with some strong boulders. Mainly with Seth Allred, a friend of mine from the US who is considered to be the shadow ‘Burgermeister of Ausserferrera’. Not only very strong, but maybe the most flexible and best crimping climber I know. Also Franz Widmer came along. Strong as hell. Very at ease and nice to climb with. Then Martin Keller. Not only a good climber, but besides all he has an endless motivation. He also is feels very responsible for all area’s and speaks with the locals in Avers in order to keep the area open and avoid any discontent. Nalle Hukkutaival did also spent some time in Ticino and hooked up with us for some days. Nalle needs no introduction. He is the climber with the most body tension out there and a well known comp climber and Rockmaster. I was inspired by them as I hope they were also inspired by me. It is for sure very motivating to climb with all these strong lads.
The most funny thing of climbing with such a group of mainly good boulderers who are all pushing themselves and try to climb the hardest they can: Everyone is motivated in their own way and for their own problems. No competition. No stress. Everyone fully respects each other and hope that they will send their projects. I smile recalling the last week.
Signing out,
Seppmeister
Sebastian Spauwen climbing ‘La Danse de Balrog’ fb 8B from joost on Vimeo.
It should at least be mentioned (especially when you talk about repeating a historical climb) that this is not the real “La Danse de Balrog”, but another start to the same line. See the Fred Nicole video and you know what I mean he does a sit down start on other holds. Don’t get me wrong it is still a good effort, but it is just not the same problem.
Hmmm, an anonymous poster….
From:
http://www.unclesomebody.com/blog/?p=27
The new method for the start means you do 1 move instead of 3, and this is how Sebastien Spauwen climbed it (as you may have seen in the video). However, it is a bit easier but this is not a variation or a different start. This is the most logical way to climb it, being the easiest method, and not eliminant. From the point you pull on for the new start it is only 30 or 40cm to the start holds that Nicole used. I tried the moves on the original start and did them ok. I kind of wish I knew that information for my previous session because I’m sure I could have done that start, which is still regarded as a benchmark 8B. I would have liked to climb it the same way as Nicole, if only to know that I was following in the footsteps of greatness.
Hi Keepitreal,
I don’t consider myself as the Central Intelligence Agency of Climbing. I posted Sebastians story which is great, and it’s up to other climbers to react if they think different. I don’t boulder 8b yet… and I haven’t been there, so thanks for your reaction and Herman too.
Ciao!
Now here’s a new video of Keith doing it… nice video Keith!
La Danse des Balrogs, 8A+ from pascal brown on Vimeo.