Welcome to Gaisenjarga

joost — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 11:35:41 +0000

Here’s a nice short video of Gaisenjarga, a boulder area with huge potential in the north of Sweden.

Oh and guys, my fellow countryman Rutger Hauer is not a B-actor, he had a role in Batman Begins and Sin City, just to name a few ;)

Lead World Cup Chuncheon 2010

joost — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 11:02:32 +0000

This weekend a lead and speed world cup takes place in Chuncheon, Korea. This worldcup is part of the World Leisure Games and the ChunCheon 2010 World Leisure Congress.

Don’t expect a livestream/webcast, but the live result will probably flow in at the ifsc website.

The startlist can be found here.

Program IFSC World Cup Lead Chuncheon

28 Aug. Saturday
10:30 ~ 17:00 - Men & Women Lead Qualification
17:00 - Opening Event by 2010 World Leisure Games Organizing Committee

29 Aug. Sunday
11:00 ~ 13:00 - Men & Women Lead Semi-Final
15:30 ~ 17:00 - Men & Women Speed Qualification

30 Aug. Monday
12:00 ~ 13:30 - Men & Women Lead Final
14:00 - Lead Awarding Ceremony
14:30 ~ 15:30 - Men & Women Speed Final
16:00 - Speed Awarding & Closing Ceremony

Chuncheon Time

Picture on top (Jain Kim) is shot by Giulio Malfer

Angie Payne climbs The Automator 8B video

joost — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 20:26:49 +0000

One week ago Angela Payne (USA) climbed ‘The Automator’ V13 in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). It is probably the worlds first female ascent of a straight-up 8B boulder problem. A video of the acent is now online…

…and can be seen at deadpointmag.com.

Boulder world cup 2010 routesetting recap

joost — Sun, 22 Aug 2010 19:06:03 +0000

If you are interested in worldcups and routesetting the new video of Udo Neumann is one to watch. The video features interviews with many competitors about the routesetting in the past season.

To have a look at the boulders of the past season you can click here to see all Udo’s boulder worldcup videos.

Chloé

joost — Sun, 22 Aug 2010 12:14:11 +0000

Last night I read the very sad news that Chloé Graftiaux (23) died after a fall during the decent of the Aiguille de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif. She was one of the best Belgian competition climbers and ended third in the last boulder worldcup season. My thoughts are with her family and friends. Her website www.chloegraftiaux.com is open for condolences.

Lead World Cup Xining 2010

joost — Fri, 20 Aug 2010 15:52:12 +0000

According to my schedule, the qualifications of the 2nd lead (and speed) worldcup of this season in Xining (China) are finished.

However the lead results are not updated on the ifsc website yet… and the event doesn’t have a website either.

So keep an eye on the ifsc result pages. And if you get your hands on some results, please drop them in the comments.

Program IFSC Lead World Cup Xining

Friday 20, Aug.
09h00 – 09h45 Opening Ceremony
10h00 – 14h00 Lead qualification for Male and Female
16h00 – 17h30 Speed qualification for Male and Female

Saturday 21, Aug.
09h30 – 12h30 Lead semi-final for Male and Female
14h45 – 15h45 Speed final for Male and Female
16h30 – 17h45 Lead final for Female
17h45 – 19h00 Lead final for Male
19h30 Awarding ceremony

Xining Time

Nicolas Favresse on La Reina Mora 8c+

joost — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 18:47:21 +0000

Here’s yet another great video from Bernardo Gimenez. This time the subject is Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse climbing La Reina Mora (8c+) in Siurana, Spain.

Panaroma Pou video

joost — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 17:39:11 +0000

No hablo español… so with crappy subtitles.

Altitude Sickness

joost — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 19:39:57 +0000

Join Daniel Woods on an exploration of high altitude alpine bouldering in Colorado. Two FA’s including The Great War For Civilization, Evil Backwards, and a repeat of Unshackled. Guest appearances by Dave Graham, Jon Cardwell, Jon Gass, and Jimmy Webb.

This video, by Chuck Fryberger, can be found at iclimb, a new website that offers climbing videos online.

Via climbcore/sloper

End of bouldering world cup season

joost — Sun, 08 Aug 2010 19:10:31 +0000

I missed out on the last world cup in Munchen where Adam Ondra and Akiyo Noguchi managed to win the world cup season.

It was an exciting world cup final because both in the men and women category, everything was still open. In the end Adam Ondra won the worldcup in Munchen before Kilian Fischhuber who might still have been fighting with a finger injury he took as a souvenir from the worldcup in Vail. In the womens Akiyo did it again, beating Anna Stöhr.

Interesting to read is that Sean McColl thought that the qualification boulders where the worst set of 5 boulders at any competition he’d ever competed at. Udo Neumann wrote this about it on udini.de: “Route setting was very ‘russian style’ as many competitors put it, meaning rather rock like moves on bad holds, what tends to favor either, well, russians or … rock climbers. Since Adam Ondra is the best rock climber in the world right now It was no surprise than that he won the event and with it the overall Boulder World Cup 2010.”

Injury, Russian? routesetting, blabla. In the end, Adam showed he’s the best, so congratulations to him. I hope he can also furfill his role as one of the Lead world cup winners favourites.

The Munich results can be found here and here’s the final boulder ranking 2010: men and women. The picture above is from Marco Kost. His full photo-serie of the Munchen worldcup can be found at urbanclimbermag.com.

Now the boulder season is over I want to thank Udo ‘Udini‘ Neumann again for making his video reports and putting them online so fast. To honour his work here’s an overview of the complete season.

World Cup Season 2010 video reports by Udo Neumann